Why I Don't Use Prong Collars (And What I Do Instead)

By Avi Kornblum, Founder, Affordable Compassionate Dog Training | October 2026

I don't use prong collars. I don't believe pain or intimidation should be the foundation of how we communicate with a dog.

My approach starts with trust, clear guidance, and teaching both the dog and the owner the skills they need.

If your dog lunges on walks, pulls constantly, or seems to ignore everything you say, you want help. You want to walk your dog without bracing for the next reaction. I get it. As the official trainer for four South Florida shelters and rescues, I work with adopted, reactive, and anxious dogs every week.

To be clear, I'm not a positive-only trainer. I believe in structure, rules, and boundaries. I just choose not to use prong collars to get there. Here's why, and what I do instead.

Why I Won't Put a Prong Collar on a Dog

My reason is simple. Using discomfort through prong-collar corrections doesn't meet the ethical standard I set for myself.

I try to live by treating others the way I'd want to be treated, and that includes every dog trusted to me. I wouldn't want prongs around my neck, getting yanked every time I misunderstood something or got scared. So I won't make that my way of teaching a dog.

If you've used a prong collar because a trainer recommended it, this isn't an accusation against you. Most owners follow professional advice because they love their dogs and want help. My job is to explain my choices and offer a practical alternative.

Can a Prong Collar Work? That's Only Part of the Question

An unpleasant consequence can stop a behavior. I'm not going to pretend a prong collar never changes what a dog does.

But stopping a behavior doesn't tell you what the dog learned.

Did the dog get more comfortable around other dogs?

Did it learn how to walk next to you?

Did you learn to spot the tension before it turned into a reaction? Or did the dog just learn that a certain situation means pain is coming?

The question I ask isn't "Can this stop the behavior?" It's "Can I teach this dog while protecting its confidence, welfare, and trust?"

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) recommends reward-based training and advises against aversive tools, including prong collars, because of the risks to welfare and the human-dog relationship. Read AVSAB's position.

What I've Seen in My Training Work

I've worked with families whose dogs still pulled hard while wearing prong collars. I've seen owners give correction after correction before ever giving the dog a clear cue or a chance to respond.

In some of those homes, the dog had become wary of being handled, and the owner was frustrated. They were doing exactly what they'd been taught, and the problem was still there.

That doesn't explain every dog's history. But it reminds me to look closely at what the dog actually understands and how the training is affecting the relationship.

When a dog has stopped trusting human guidance, rebuilding that trust becomes part of the work. Changing the equipment won't do that. Changing the communication will.

There Is No Magic Tool

When it comes to equipment, I typically use a slip lead. I place it high on the neck, above the trachea, so there's no pressure on the windpipe. That placement lets me gently guide the dog's head, which helps keep the dog from locking onto a trigger. I use it to guide, not to yank or punish.

But no piece of equipment fixes a behavior problem. Good communication does. Good timing does. Good technique and good training do.

Training is about giving the dog clarity: what you want it to do, what you don't want it to do, and what it can do instead. That means learning to read your dog, stepping in before tension turns into fixation or escalation, giving the dog an alternative job, and rewarding good decisions.

And rewarding good decisions doesn't mean being a Pez dispenser with treats. Rewards are one part of clear communication, used with purpose and good timing.

Start With the Dog in Front of Me

Before I pick an exercise, I ask:

• What is this dog feeling right now?

• What does it already understand?

• How does it learn best, and what motivates it?

• What can I change to make success easier?

• What do the owners need from me?

A fearful adopted dog, a frustrated teenage dog, and a dog overwhelmed by passing dogs can all look the same on the outside. That doesn't mean they need the same training.

Build Trust Through Predictable Interactions

Trust grows when your communication is consistent and the dog gets chances to succeed. I want the dog to learn that paying attention to a person leads to guidance it can understand. I want the owner to feel confident about what to do next.

This matters even more with adopted dogs. We often know very little about their past. We can still make what happens now clear, patient, and predictable. (For more on this, see my Adopted Dog Specialist page.)

Teach Owners to Read Their Dogs

Communication goes both ways. Dogs usually tell you they're uncomfortable long before they bark or lunge: a stiffening body, a hard stare, trouble looking away. As I like to say, dogs make the worst poker players.

When owners catch those signs early, they can create space, redirect, or make the situation easier before the dog gets overwhelmed. That skill helps long after our sessions end.

Make Calm Decisions Possible

With reactive dogs, distance is everything. If another dog is too close for your dog to cope, moving farther away creates room to learn. I call this spatial decompression: giving the dog enough space to notice, process, and respond.

From there, we practice checking in, turning away, following a change of direction, and watching calmly without reacting. Success might start with your dog seeing another dog across the street and looking back at you. That's a good decision, and we build on it. Learn more on my reactive dog training page.

Teach Walking Skills Before Expecting Them

A dog has to learn what a loose leash feels like, where to walk, and how to respond when you stop or turn. The owner needs practice too: timing, leash handling, body language, and clear cues. We start where the dog can succeed, then move into harder places.

Give the Family a Plan They Can Use

Training has to work when I'm not standing next to you. After every session, you get a simple recap and homework, so you know what to practice and why. To me, the purest form of dog training is communication, guidance, and leadership the dog can understand, and that includes coaching the people with the same patience we give the dog.

Calm Leadership Includes Rules and Boundaries

Compassionate training still has clear expectations. Dogs can learn to wait at doors, leave things alone, hold a stay, walk on a loose leash, and settle in the house.

When I talk about leadership, I mean taking responsibility: setting realistic expectations, managing the environment, and helping the dog make better choices. It doesn't mean treating every problem as the dog trying to dominate you. AVSAB cautions against that approach too. Read its dominance position statement.

Trainers Need to Keep Learning

I owe it to the dogs and families I work with to keep learning. Being used to a technique isn't a good enough reason to keep using it. I keep asking whether there's a clearer, more effective, more humane way to help the dog in front of me. And when a case needs more support, I work with the family's veterinarian or refer them to a veterinary behavior specialist.

Help for Reactive, Anxious, and Adopted Dogs in South Florida

If walks have become exhausting, your dog reacts to everything, or you feel like your communication is getting lost, there's a starting point. We figure out what's really going on and build a plan around your dog and your family.

I provide in-home and real-world training in Margate, Coral Springs, Parkland, Coconut Creek, Lighthouse Point, Deerfield Beach, Fort Lauderdale, Weston, Boca Raton, and surrounding Broward and Palm Beach County communities.

Call or text (954) 900-9013 for a free phone consultation.

Tell me what's happening, and we'll talk about how I can help.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should you use a prong collar on a reactive dog?

I don't recommend it. A prong collar may stop lunging in the moment, but it can teach the dog that other dogs predict discomfort, which can make reactivity worse over time. Working on distance, body language, and calm alternative behaviors addresses the cause instead.

Can you train a reactive dog without a prong collar? 

Yes. Training focuses on understanding triggers, adjusting distance, teaching alternative responses, and rewarding calm choices. Severe or complex cases may also need veterinary support.

Why don't you use prong collars?

 I don't consider discomfort from prong-collar corrections an acceptable foundation for training. I focus on trust, clear communication, good timing, and coaching owners.

What do you use instead of a prong collar? 

I typically use a slip lead, placed high on the neck above the trachea to avoid pressure on the windpipe. It lets me guide the dog's head and helps prevent fixation on a trigger. I use it for guidance, not for yanking. But no tool fixes a behavior problem on its own. Good communication, good timing, good technique, and good training do.

My dog still pulls on a prong collar. What should I do? 

Have your walks assessed before assuming stronger corrections are needed. Pulling can come from excitement, fear, frustration, or skills the dog hasn't learned yet. The plan should address the cause and teach both of you what to do.

Does training without a prong mean letting my dog do whatever it wants? 

No. I'm not a positive-only trainer. You can set clear rules and boundaries while teaching patiently.

Can you help if my dog was previously trained with a prong collar? 

Yes. We start by assessing your dog's current behavior and comfort, then build a plan for your household.

Do you work with adopted dogs that have anxiety or trust issues? 

Yes. Adopted dogs are a central focus of my work as South Florida's Adopted Dog Specialist and the official trainer for four shelters and rescues.